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Sight Alignment, Trigger Control and The Big
Lie
CHAPTER FOUR
SLACK
The M-14 has a two
stage trigger. The first stage has what is called "slack"; you pull the trigger
through the slack until you feel it stop. The second stage requires a force of
at least four and one half pounds to make the hammer fall and fire the rifle. I
thought that was pretty simple and straight forward and I couldn't mess it up. I
WAS WRONG!!! We went to the range on New Years Day and I did a little shooting.
While I was in the pits, pulling my target, one of the shooters who had attended
my High Power Rifle Class said he thought what I meant by "slack" was to put the
rifle in your shoulder and, with a good grip, pull the stock back into your
shoulder, taking up the slack. I swear, some days I can ruin an anvil with a
rubber mallet.
SQUEEZE
Squeeze is nothing more
than applying pressure to the trigger - straight to the rear without disturbing
the sights. Easier said than done. Right? Well there are some other things to
add that will help you do this. There are two basic methods: (1) the
uninterrupted and (2) the interrupted method.
Using the uninterrupted
method you start the trigger squeeze and continue until the rifle fires, while
maintaining sight alignment. You must accept your "wobble area." Most
people use the uninterrupted method in all positions except off-hand.
When using the
interrupted method you start the trigger squeeze and maintain your sight
alignment. As the sights drift off the "sight picture" or your "aiming point"
(i.e., six o'clock hold), you stop the trigger squeeze but you do not
let off the pressure. You hold the pressure at that point, interrupting the
trigger squeeze. As the sights come back to the point of aim, you continue the
squeeze.
Figure 9 shows the
shots scattered in no particular pattern. The main cause was improper focus.
Another cause is poor trigger control, especially in the off-hand position (See
Figure 13). The shots are further from the center than you would have with
improper focus. OK, fine, but how do we get the proper trigger control? First,
we have to learn the mechanics and the things to do and/or not to do. We then
have to work on it: a lot of dry firing. We have to do some exercises to the
point it becomes automatic; second nature; auto pilot. You do it without
thinking. If something goes wrong, your finger must instantly come off the
trigger.

The instructions here
will be for the off-hand position. There is a little more involved here than
with the other positions. The instructions for off-hand position will cover all
the others. The first thing to do is take a look at your hand. Examine the palm.
From the center of the palm up to the base of the thumb is a meaty part that
looks like the drum stick on a chicken leg, especially if you move the thumb
slightly towards the little finger.
While we are doing the
examination of the hand, bend the trigger finger toward you so you can see the
finger nail. Look at the tip of the finger, then look at the back of the finger
nail, the part that is known as the "quick." Now turn the finger over and look
at the pad of flesh directly opposite the quick. This is the part of the
finger that should touch the trigger. Not the finger tip and no further back
than the first joint.
Now look at the second
joint. When you grip the rifle at the small of the stock and place your finger
on the trigger, make sure the back part of the finger near the second joint does
not lay tightly onto the stock (called "Dragging Wood"). This would prevent you
from pulling the trigger straight to the rear. You would push it to the side,
taking the front sight with it. Your group would look like Figure 14.

Now that we have some
individual pieces of this puzzle, let's put them together. When you get ready to
shoot off-hand or any other position, consistency is important. You must do it
the same every time. When you close the bolt (in a safe direction - down range),
you start by placing your hand on the small of the stock. Look at the "Drum
Stick" meaty part of the palm and make sure it comes in contact with the same
part of the stock each and every time, usually just to the right of the
centerline.
Now wrap your hand
around the small of the stock and get a good grip. The trigger finger is placed
lightly on the trigger, in the manner described above, making sure you are not
"dragging wood." The three lower fingers come on around the small of the stock
and meet the thumb to form the grip.
The grip should be like
a good firm handshake. If you put on a "death grip," you will have muscle
tension and it will shake. If the grip is too loose (Sgt. Roxsborough used to
call it a "Fifi grip"), you will not have control, and a 4 1/2 pound trigger
pull will feel like ten pounds.
There are several
exercises you can do at home. Just make sure the rifle is safe -- unloaded.
Wives or girl friends get very upset with bullet holes in the ceiling.
The first exercise you can do while sitting on the couch in the living room or
just about anywhere. With the magazine out and the rifle clear, close the bolt
and get the grip as explained above. With your eyes closed, feel the
trigger pull as you squeeze the trigger. Try to take up about one half of the
trigger pressure and hold it, then take up the other half of the pressure until
the hammer falls. Repeat this again and again. Some people find they can do it
right away while others have to work harder at it. It may require dozens of
times or hundreds of times, but do it until it becomes second nature. It will
help your off-hand scores tremendously.
ANTICIPATING RECOIL
Figures 15 and 15A show
groups that indicate the shooter is anticipating the recoil of the rifle. If you
fire an M-14, or most any rifle, with no sweatshirt, no shooting jacket, no
sling, a loose grip and your head not placed firmly on the stock, IT WILL KICK
THE HELL OUT OF YOU!!! Since you're smarter than that, you can overcome
the recoil and you don't even notice it.

Always wear a
sweatshirt (a hooded one is best) no matter what the temperature. The sweatshirt
fills out the shooting jacket and maintains the body at an even temperature
(HOT). It, along with the shooting jacket, helps absorb the recoil.
A good leather
sling, properly adjusted (coming in the next book), will absorb most of the
recoil. You must have a good firm grip and place your head firmly onto the
stock. Your head will ride with the rifle as it recoils and it will not kick
you. It just pushes your shoulder and you ride with it. Your concentration
should be so centered on sight alignment, focus and trigger control, you can
ignore the recoil and just let it happen.
For More Great
Information Order the Book: "Sight
Alignment, Trigger Control and The Big Lie"
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